9 Jun 2008

Fairy Steps!

G'Day! Sunday the 8th of June 2008 i made my first visit to Fairy Steps to do some bouldering with Sean. Really nice day with the trees providing some nice shade and a little bit of a breeze to blow the pesky midges away. After having a look at the Lakesbloc guide and Lancs Rock we decided to head to the Upper Right/Left Section to climb on the Taliesin/Fantasy area. We did a quick warm up solo of Puck (M) then headed for the good stuff. Firstly we climbed Merlin a lovely V0 on good holds, Problem 4 (V0) was next i just managed to flash it, it was really polished and the footholds were like glass, Sean struggled with the polish (a big problem as the day continued) and was spat off several times. The next climb was the lovely Rheaed a V1 that went up the arete on good holds we both flashed it with ease. Woodbind is a fantastic problem and goes at V0, getting stood up on the tree stump was quite worrying as you were holding a wobbly jug with both hands. Woodbind Traverse V2 was next you climbed Woodbind to the stump then stepped left and followed the break to Celtica then finish up there, quite tough for V2 with the polish, although it could have been then lack of a decent warm up, who knows! Next we tried the Mote of Mark a V1 that we both failed on, poor finger jamming technique or the polish? I'll go with the polish lol. After failing on a measly V1 i wanted to boost my morale by attemping to flash Problem 8 a fingery, crimpy V4 (just my style). I came so close with my hand on the hold and about to match before my feet popped off and i landed in a heap on the mat. Underterred i despatched it 3rd go the 2nd attempt resulting in me landing on the mat arse first. Next was the nice Caerliol which although looked to be solved with a dynamic slap it went easier statically after working your feet up onto better holds. We both sent it a good V1. Problem 10 went without trouble a mediocre V1 but on polished holds so i don't think it really deserves its one star. Next was Down the Edifice a V2 traverse across the break similar to Woodbind Traverse, i flashed it but Sean pumped out and couldn't quite get it. We then headed to the Upper Left section, it wasn't as good as theUpper Right but we both sent new problems Seans went at V1, a awkward top out through thick branches, and mine a V3, Technical Dusting, named because the climbing was technical and i was dusting the holds as i went. It takes a layback up a slightly overhanging wall on poorish holds, delicate footwork allows you the solace of a good crimp then a tough dirty top out.


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